Located in a growing section of downtown, Wurstküche could be taken as a wurst enthusiast’s dream or nightmare. A self-labeled wurst enthusiast myself, I was curious to see how their traditional bratwurst measured up and whether their specialty items added anything new. As I approached the ominous entrance of massive brick wall and sliding wood panels, fear immediately enveloped me. Was I entering a restaurant or traveling back in time to a 1980s Lower Manhattan meatpacking sex club? I swear I saw Al Pacino cruisin’ by. The front room's architecture is quite cold, unwelcoming, and claustrophobic.
Ein Bitburger, Bitte!
My saving grace as I grumbled through the cramped ordering area was the sight of juicy wursts on the grill and beer taps behind the counter. The beer selection here is quite extensive and favors Belgian varieties. As the warm and welcoming bartender handed me my Bitburger with a twinkle in his eye, I threw back a few sips of the cold brew, and my foul mood soon began to melt. This 21st century take on a Bavarian beer garden was beginning to grow on me and I hadn’t even taken a bite of anything. It is amazing what good beer and service can do for your psyche.
Further down the dark dungeon hallway in search of a seat, I was surprised to discover an open room that looked straight out of Bruegel’s The Peasant Wedding. I opted to eat outside on the charming patio, spacious enough for one to relax and enjoy the late afternoon breeze.
Communal tables, my kind of place.
And there's a bar!
The charming patio.
Once the food came I quickly realized what all the fuss was about this place. Though the alligator wurst was dry, overly spicy and a bit of a disappointment, the bratwurst and Belgian fries more than made up for it. Wurstkuche definitely nailed the traditional brat. It may have been the best of my life. My apologies to my aunt back in Wisconsin and her beer-soaked brats. The Belgian fries gave you everything you could ask for, not too crispy, not too soft, and the ketchup and mustard relieved the dipping sauces of their duties. Certain novel ideas may be better served as just ideas.
Alligator & Pork, Smoked Andouille Sausage
w/Sauerkraut and Spicy Peppers
The Classic Bratwurst
w/Carmelized Onions and Sweet Peppers
w/Thai Peanut and Chipotle Aioli sauces
That is Wurstküche in a bun, new meets old. It tries to satisfy all tastes on the spectrum but it may be better off catering to its strengths.
- Jesse
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